Corn and Scallion Fried Rice. Credit: Justin Tsucalas; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky/Both for The Washington Post
"I always joke that salt, sugar, MSG is the Chinese trinity seasoning mix,” chef Calvin Eng told me recently. The trio is so integral to his style of Cantonese American cooking that he named his cookbook, written with Phoebe Melnick, after it. "While each ingredient can stand on its own, mixed together you have a seasoning powerhouse,” Eng writes in the introduction to "Salt Sugar MSG.”
Salt, of course, helps bring out the other flavors in a dish and keeps food from tasting flat and bland. Sugar adds another layer on its own; can intensify the sweetness already present; and can also balance sour, bitter and salty notes. Lastly, MSG (monosodium glutamate) is included for its unmatched savoriness. "This is the punch of umami that makes a dish - that makes you salivate, that keeps you coming back for more,” Eng writes. "I don’t add MSG to recipes for the controversial shock factor. I truly believe the seasoning adds something you can’t achieve with just salt and sugar alone.”
Though there is long-held stigma surrounding the use of MSG, "it’s scientifically proven to not be bad for you,” Eng said. Compared with the glutamates that are naturally found in foods, "your body processes it all the same way. It can’t tell the difference between it coming from the granules that you buy, which are pure MSG, or if you’re getting it from mushrooms.” He uses it in almost everything he makes - in savory foods, naturally, but also desserts ("just to add another layer and depth of flavor,” he said) and drinks (as part of a salt rim or in cordials).
Eng relies on that trio to create balance in his dishes, adding a bit of each as he sees fit. "There’s no set ratio or set proportions that I use. I kind of just have it on my counter next to the stove all the time,” he said. "Salt, sugar, MSG doesn’t necessarily have to come strictly straight from those ingredients. The salt could be soy sauce, honey could be the sugar, and the MSG could be parmesan, for example.”
You need only a handful of ingredients, many of which you might have on hand, for this corn and scallion fried rice. Credit: Justin Tsucalas; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky/Both for The Washington Post
It’s all about learning how to pull those levers to amp up the interest of a dish. And for Eng, a blank canvas like his corn and scallion fried rice is a great place to start.
"I grew up eating fried rice at least like once a week at home,” he said. "It was a fast, quick weeknight meal, and also it was a great way to clean out the refrigerator. There’s no set rules or guidelines of what can go in there. It’s really just, like, choose your own adventure.”
This recipe calls for canned corn, a nod to the cases of it from Costco that Eng’s family always had during his childhood, and butter, an ingredient not usually seen in fried rice. "I think it’s just one of the most perfect flavors: sweet corn with butter. So cooking it in butter and then finishing it with a pat of butter on top just feels very nostalgic.” A pinch of sugar heightens the corn’s sweetness, while a sprinkle of MSG adds a savory bass note of umami, and a dash of salt rounds out everything. Black and white pepperbring a touch of spice and funk, and the trio of ginger, garlic and scallions perfumes and flavors the dish throughout.
But, of course, you can customize it however you see fit, such as by using fresh corn when it’s in season or frozen kernels instead of canned. "It could be modified to all dietary restrictions, whether you eat eggs or don’t eat eggs, whether you eat dairy or don’t eat dairy,” Eng said. "There’s a lot of ways to tweak this recipe and make it fit for your lifestyle.”
While fried rice is very flexible, one law is imperative: "I always prepare my rice the day before just to ensure it has enough time to really dry out,” Eng said. (You can also use leftover rice from a recent takeout meal.) "The last thing you want is clumpy grains that are all stuck together, because the perfect fried rice should be all individual distinct grains.”
Corn and Scallion Fried Rice
4 servings (makes about 5 cups)
Total time: 20 mins
This pantry-friendly fried rice includes canned corn, scallions, ginger and garlic. It’s seasoned with a trio of salt, sugar and MSG, alongside black and white peppers, for an explosion of flavor. If you’re unfamiliar with MSG, it adds a delicious savoriness that’s hard to beat.
Make ahead: This dish is best made with rice cooked 1 to 4 days in advance.
Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.
Where to buy: MSG, such as Ajinomoto or Accent brand, can be found in the spice aisle of well-stocked supermarkets, Asian markets and online.
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for serving
1 (15-ounce) can whole kernel corn, drained, preferably no-salt-added
4 scallions, thinly sliced, divided
3 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated
1 tablespoon minced or finely grated fresh ginger
1 1/2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
2 large eggs, beaten
4 cups cooked white long-grain rice, preferably day-old (see Make ahead)
1 1/2 teaspoons MSG (see Where to buy)
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
STEPS
Set a medium bowl near the stove. In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat, heat the butter until it foams. Add the corn and three-quarters of the scallions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the scallions start to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring constantly, until very fragrant and starting to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the prepared bowl.
Wipe the skillet clean, return it to medium-high heat and heat the oil until shimmering. Add the eggs and, using a rubber spatula, scramble quickly until they form big, soft curds, about 30 seconds; break the cooked egg into small pieces.
Add the rice, stirring to combine with the eggs and, if necessary, pressing gently to separate the grains. Return the corn mixture to the skillet, add the MSG, salt, sugar, black pepper and white pepper, and stir to combine. Transfer the fried rice to a serving platter or individual bowls, top with a pat of butter, more black pepper and the remaining scallions, and serve.
Substitutions: Canned corn >> 1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen corn White long-grain rice >> any type of rice or grain. Want to avoid MSG? >> Omit it, and season with salt to taste. White pepper >> more black pepper. Fresh ginger >> frozen ginger. (Do not use ground ginger, as it will burn.)
Nutrition per serving (1 1/4 cups): 369 calories, 54g carbohydrates, 96mg cholesterol, 13g fat, 2g fiber, 9g protein, 4g saturated fat, 589mg sodium, 3g sugar
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.
Adapted from "Salt Sugar MSG” by Calvin Eng with Phoebe Melnick (Clarkson Potter, 2025).
